Singapore
My introduction to Singapore as a young girl traveling alone on one of the new ‘ship – jet’ routes bound for ‘where it was at’ London in 1972, was of a very different Singapore than you see today. The travellers I met on board the Eastern Queen wanted to see it all – I think that was the nightlife! Singapore was a pretty wild place – a shock to the senses! – an education on how people lived in in Asia in the early 70’s – (and still do in other places). The eastern & colonial architecture was amazing but some of it very run down, lacking repair – the humidity taking its toll, the lack of sanitation – open drains, the stomach turning smell and confronting the sick lying on the pavement with beggars. Things you had only read about in novels – You had to keep your wits about you. Bugis Street was something to witness in the day! – It was hard to tell the women from the men we spent the night drinking with an interesting tranny- not sure if lady boy was a term then. – And god help you if you needed to use the ‘toilet’ my first ‘experience’ of a street squat facility.
2018 – Although sad at the loss of the wonderful architecture it’s interesting to see how Singapore has re-invented itself and the economic turnaround, although I do remember discontent with displacement and demolition of large areas of housing but now it seems to have a thriving economy where good housing and education is enjoyed by most of its residents (I am not sure of its guest workers situation). It remains an incredibly safe place to visit – but seriously $1Singapore = $1Aus – use to be 4!
So here I am visiting Katong in the eastern part of Singapore exploring the historical remnants. So first some history – The Joo Chiat neighbourhood comprises of the historical centre of Katong, with its uniquely Singaporean architectural fusion mix of Chinese, Peranakan and English colonial styles, which was thankfully designated a national heritage conservation area 1993. The conservation area consists of many shophouses which are refurnished into cafes as well as speciality shops. in the late 19th – 20th Century Katong attracted the wealthy and they built villas mansions along the beachfront of Katong, beginning from Katong Park to the end of the East Coast – it now has many high rise apartments and hotels some built on land reclaimed in the 1960’s. So for the interested and now apparently the trendy you can explore pre war architecture in the Katong and Joo Chiat districts and maybe you will also fall in love with unique Peranakan neighbourhood now known for its cool cafes. Baroque Peranakan architecture can be found amid rows of traditional shophouses that date back to the 1920s. Koon Seng Road has rows of brightly painted pre-war terraced houses in Straits Eclectic style complete with handcrafted ceramic tiles and animal reliefs. (Malaca (a UNESCO site)is another really interesting example of Peranakan culture )
Katong’s rich cultural mix has contributed to its unique cuisine, often called the world’s first fusion cuisine, Peranakan food blends traditional Chinese cooking with local spices to create something new that’s often called nonya after the women who first created the dishes and is well known for its restaurants serving Peranakan cuisine and particularly, a spicy Straits Chinese noodle soup called Katong Laksa (Yum) and the one of the best known place to eat it at is the ever-popular 328 Katong Laksa (216 East Coast Road) in Katong. Further along is the Kim Choo part of the Peranakan shop making tradional Nonya style dumplings and sweet that I would have to say were absolutely amazing.
