Our introduction to Japan takes us from the airport to Shinjuku via the train network – Wow it is very extensive but also I’m quite surprised at how old and in need of a face-lift some of the stations are (I’m expecting ultra modern high tech so this is a strange contrast – one of many ahead). Looking out of the window as the train gets increasingly packed, we fly by grey suburbs with small box housing and a mass of electric power lines – almost an art form in themselves. The occasional manicured garden lifts my spirits. We navigate the rail system changing lines, heavy suitcases and backpacks in tow to Shinjuku station – said to be the busiest station in the world. The station is massive and is the centre of many of the JR lines, the Shinkansen and the subway together with millions of commuters who seem purposed to walk in front or deliberately derail your efforts of juggling suitcases, backpacks and duty free on route to your hotel. If you were expecting a modern well maintained set of platforms and subways think again. Navigating the busy platforms, queues and areas under repair (and surprise people do queue) takes its toll on the suitcase wheels and the self- porter.
Shinjuku (新宿), is one of the 23 city wards of Tokyo, which is the large entertainment, business and shopping area around Shinjuku Station and the Hotel Gracery claims to be a short walk from the station (assuming you find the right exit!!) but after carrying heavy suitcases up the station stairs – no lifts or escalators to be found, we resort to google maps and are most thankful for the complimentary Boingo Wi-Fi.
Once you establish that you and Google maps* are indeed facing the same direction you can resume your ‘leisurely’ stroll through the neon filled streets ignoring the herds of people or robots that come to challenge your very existence. Eventually we arrive at the hotel with a very sick set of suitcase wheels screeching for attention!
We meet the very efficient new trainee of the Hotel Gracery and we are very quickly checked in and directed to our room and presented with our parcel of ordered pocket wi-fi from Japan Wi-Fi. (lifesaver)
Having been up since before 5am we decide to fight the heavy eyelids and brave the new world of Tokyo in search of the ultimate dinner destination – alas there are literally millions of choices all displaying plastic replicas of food or pictures with Japanese sub-titles and if you are really lucky the occasional rough translation of English that all makes perfect sense if you were an alien. We find ourselves circumnavigating the streets – visiting the red light district Northeast of the station known as Kabukicho – no, we don’t want the girls or the robot?.
Stumbling across an interesting bohemian alley I think this is the place! And at the other end I like the pictures – Yes we can eat here I proclaim just as a large rodent chooses to walk in front of John’s feet (not a good move!) Further investigation reveals the ‘Basil’ has his whole family assembled under a box at the doorway to the restaurant waiting for later? (John decides to eat elsewhere.)
Decisions, decisions – how long does it take to choose the right place and why is my Zen sense of navigation failing me! Numerous discussions follow as to the composition of Noodles and whether buckwheat is actually gluten free. And then by magic the word Okonomiyaki shines out from the window. Having been given the hot tip on this delectable delight by past adventurers we descend into the basement into the world of table BBQ’s and decide to see whether this dish is in fact ‘to die for’. The verdict – really good very tasty but not actually gluten free we find out later.
Okonomiyaki
Ingredients for the batter:
100g okonomiyaki flour
100ml water
1 egg
1/4 cabbage
1 spring onion
Toppings:
meat / seafood toppings of your choice-we suggest bacon, shrimp, or squid
to serve: mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce, dried bonito, flakesaonori seaweed, pickled ginger, tenkasu tempura flakes
How To Prepare
- Mix the okonomiyaki flour and the water together and set aside.
- Chop the cabbage and spring onion into fine pieces and add to batter mix.
- Add the egg and mix until everything is evenly combined. Take care not to over-mix, or this will result in a tough and chewy pancake.
- Heat up a frying pan or hotplate with a little oil on medium high heat. Pour the okonomiyaki batter into a round pancake shape in the centre of the pan. If using meat, start cooking your meat strips separate from the pancake. Cook the pancake for 3-4 minutes until the bottom is light brown.
- Once the bottom of the pancake is cooked, add any toppings to the top and flip over to finish cooking. Do not press down with a spatula or the pancake will not be light and fluffy. Cook for a further 3-4 minutes and remove from the pan when finished.
- Smother with lashings of okonomiyaki sauce and mayonnaise, sprinkle with bonito flakes, aonori seaweed, tenkasu tempura flakes and a portion of pickled ginger.
Tips and Information
- If you cannot find okonomiyaki Flour, use 100g of plain flour mixed with 2g of dashi stock powder and 1 tsp of baking powder.
– While the first side is cooking, try frying up some yakisoba noodles and flipping the pancake on to these when cooking the other side for Hiroshima style okonomiyaki.
– During the final stage, try breaking an egg on the top of the pancake, then cover with a wok lid to quickly steam-cook. Serve when the yolk is slightly runny.
https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/1-okonomiyaki-savoury-pancake
We return to our hotel room but find the famous 7–11 store on our doorstep and thankfully the more infamous 7-11 autoteller in fact they have 2 and they are highly in demand.
The shop has a variety of goodness for breakfast and also bowls of edible things that they microwave for you and is backpacker heaven – and those of us not willing to part with $40+ dollar for hotel breakfast.
Our hotel room is ‘compact’ everything you need in the minimum amount of space but the large bathroom defies logic – it is obviously a very important part of the Japanese culture.
The shower bath area is bigger than the bed and then there is the toilet – a magnificent beast with warm seat (even in 34 degrees heat), and the control panel for ‘spray’ , ‘bidet’ (lady icon) and then the pressure adjustment and the obligatory flush.
The shower and bath leave nothing to chance and have temperature control and for the bath auto cut out at the predetermined level – sheer perfection!
I’ve heard of the Japanese penchant for torture and it obviously manifests itself in the form of the hotel pillow but alas we find that there is a menu of pillows and housekeeping arrives with 2 feather pillows on a tray.
We move our suitcases off the bed to the passage and enjoy a well earned good night’s sleep.
*Unfortunatley Japanese maps can not be downloaded to view offline.
